Introduction
|
Marc Jacobs, the boy wonder from Manhattan, was once a shy, and less prominent individual before the tattoos and success. His first tragedy was the death of his father, a talent agent when Jacobs turned seven. His mother, whom Jacobs calls “a mess” remarried three times, bouncing homes constantly. This brought negativity among Jacobs, his mother and his siblings that led him to move in with his paternal grandmother in desperation. Quoted New York Times Magazine, “I always say, I lived life with my grandmother.” He was encouraged by the noble life in the Upper West Side of Manhattan, with the best education, and the most supportive people surrounded him. Jacobs once told Out Magazine in 2007, “I look at the positive side of all the negative things that happened to me. That again, is a choice of perspective.”
Jacobs always have had a keen interest in fashion, possibly the influence of his grandmother, who would refuse to tell him “No, he could not do that”. He believed fashion to be self-expression and ways of realistic theater. He said in In Teen Vogue Handbook, “I’d buy carpenters’ pants and over dye them or a sweatshirt and cut off the sleeves. That way I could achieve the look I wanted.” Marc Jacobs grew up with his paternal grandmother on the Upper Westside of Manhattan. There he was around the educated and noble individuals. Being around his grandmother, would influence him to like what she loves, fashion. As a teen he was exposed to clubs like Hurrah or Studio 54 that would cultivate his love interest with cutting –edge music that would later influence his concert like elements in his designs. He would also achieve great success and failures during his career. His time a Perry Ellis would make him the star he is today. The position of creative director, would gain him the audience to further his career in fashion. When Jacobs debut his infamous grunge collection, the exposure was not widely accepted which would later cost Jacobs job in Perry Ellis. Thanks to a dear friend named Tom Ford, the out of the job designer would land his most inspiration position in fashion. He would be considered the next creative director for the fashion house, Louis Vuitton. Today, Marc Jacobs the label would become one of the most sucessful and favored brand label of the 21st century. |
Critical Analysis
|
Living Free could have been the slogan of the decade, made famous by the decade’s teens. Their self-expressive ways found itself vibrant and addicting. These created some of the famous trends in fashion, music and films that represent 1980s. Individualism was formed, what came out were bright colors such as blue, pink, and neon color schemes. Hip-hop’s rap scene gave birth to break dancers, and Rock creating sub-genre like indie and punk. The Fashion shift helped commercialize street style, a fashion trend Marc Jacobs is known for debuting called “The grunge collection.” "The collection was an amalgamation of Seattle's music culture, the rise of "waif" models, and young British realist photography." (Fashion: Hate it, love it) The 1980s often referred to as the Greed Decade is when society valued materialistic things and social statures. Everything was big and exaggerated from the hair to the lifestyle, shoulder pads, legwarmers and Miami Vice type of clothing. These were times when people could have cared less about anything but themselves. The street was filthy, AIDs became an epidemic, people became self-destructive, the Japanese influence was significant and Graffiti became an expression of art instead of rebellious tactics. Fashion was all over the place, because society was less organized. Marc Jacobs took the troubling times and fused it with high fashion.
Marc Jacobs today is a polished designer, far from his raw aesthetics from 1983. The changing times are to blame, for the times today are not as drastic as it was then. Jacob’s fashion influences include, Claire McCardell, Ossie Clark, and Andre Courreges. McCardell known to have a pared-down minimalism kind of style pioneered the first American Look. Her simple and functional designs and smart ready to wear clothing, paved limitless renditions of casual apparel. McCardell's influence is found in Jacob's aesthetic of expensive looking tailoring. Ossie Clark, known for his non-constricting, free moving dress cuts impacted Jacobs with his muted colors ad moss crepes. Jacobs runway collection would showcase a mutitude of muted color schemes to support his minimalistic designs. And Lastly, Andre Courreges known for his ultra-modern designs, will be the most dominant influential figure for Jacobs. Jacobs, who often include an array of tailored suits in his collection mimics the modernity of Courreges. |
Influence
|
Marc Jacobs became internationally known when he started his first label in 1983. Since then, he would catch every eye of any human being in the planet. In 2010, Time Magazine issued its list of 100 Most Influential People in the World, Designer Marc Jacobs is one of those 100. (Famous Designers) His name, personal would be the most popular, profitable and sustainable entity today.
The American designer’s journey started post high school being exposed to his mother’s eye lashes, dance, music and all the 70s glory. Later, he would get accepted and graduated at the Parsons School for Design, although he was relatively young designer, Jacob’s uncanny influence will aid in the designs of fashion house, Perry Ellis and becoming the creative Director of Louis Vuitton. Marc Jacobs best describes how his mind processes an inspiration, as he said, “Comfort has nothing to do with the size of the garment. I do find something quite comfortable and charming in a too-narrow shoulder, a sleeve that’s too short or too long, a pant that’s too high or too low, hems that are trod on. I like romantic allusions to the past: what the babysitter wore, what the art teacher wore, what I wore during my experimental days in fashion when I was going to the Mudd Club and wanted to be a new wave kid or a punk kid but was really a poseur. It’s the awkwardness of posing and feeling like I was in, but I never was in. Awkwardness gives me great comfort. I’ve never been cool, but I’ve felt cool. I’ve been in the cool place, but I wasn’t really cool—I was trying to pass for hip or cool. It’s the awkwardness that’s nice.” (NY Times mag) The designer has influenced many future designers such as Victoria Beckham, who sings nothing but praises about Jacobs. She says, “He has never followed fashion trends, he follows his heart and sets trends. His passion for popular culture infuses his designs with irreverence, color, and energy. He inspires and educates me every time we meet.” (Famous Designer) Victoria Beckham, a former spice girl, a budding designer, follows the same philosophy for the design of her collections. Instead following trends, she is setting them, like her famous ready to wear silhouettes that resembles her personal style and aesthetic. Another celebrity, turned designer influenced by Marc Jacob’s design is Madonna. She launch of her clothing line, Material Girl in 2010, the 1980’s punk-like style she known to make famous. The aesthetic shares the same rebel –like style Marc Jacobs pioneered in 1992 grunge-inspired collection for Perry Ellis. Marc Jacobs wear many hats that define his characteristics as a designer. “Night vs. day. Polished vs. pretty. Bold vs. bashful.” (Famous Designers) His lasting influence are found in his designs for his label, Marc Jacobs and Marc by Marc Jacobs, and the Louis Vuitton collection. All like night and day, Out of fashion, intricate, complex woman describes Marc Jacobs label. The persona of a Marc by Marc Jacobs woman is delicate, soft, poetic, and romantic. As oppose to the Louis Vuitton woman who is bold, confident and self –assured. Marc Jacobs, a rebel designer would later create his most memorable pieces that would still be used in runways and designs today. Creations like Graffiti-inspired prints, as he retains his New York edge seen in the uniform of shiny combat boots and black Comme des Garçons kilts. (Elle) Marc Jacobs setting the bar high for street fashion in the new millennium. |
Photo Gallery
Work Cited
Boone, Mary, and Marc Jacobs. Marc Jacobs. New York: Chelsea House, 2011. Print.
Yohannan, Kohle. "McCardell, Claire." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, 2005. Web. 31 Aug. 2014. <http://www.bergfashionlibrary.com/view/bazf/bazf00392.xml>.
Park, Jennifer. "Courrèges, André." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, 2005. Web. 31 Aug. 2014. <http://www.bergfashionlibrary.com/view/bazf/bazf00144.xml>.
Mower, Sarah. "Fashion: Hate it, Love it." Vogue Jul 01 2005: 152,152, 153, 154, 155, 156, 157, 176. ProQuest. Web. 9 Sep. 2014 .
Images
Bullock, Maggie. "Marc Jacobs on Marriage, His Career, and His Sexy New Girl." Elle. N.p., 11 Sept. 2009. Web. 05 Sept. 2014.
4 PIC
Vbm_nf12_003. Digital image. Http://www.wgsn.com. N.p., n.d. Web. 05 Sept. 2014.
Branscomb, Leslie Wolf. Marc Jacobs. Greensboro, NC: Morgan Reynolds Pub., 2011. Print.
Foley, Bridget. Marc Jacobs. Paris: Assouline, 2004. Print.
Steele, Valerie, and Robert Nippoldt. Fashion Designers A-Z: The Collection of the Museum at FIT: Prada Edition. Köln: Taschen, 2012. Print.
Yohannan, Kohle. "McCardell, Claire." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, 2005. Web. 31 Aug. 2014. <http://www.bergfashionlibrary.com/view/bazf/bazf00392.xml>.
Park, Jennifer. "Courrèges, André." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, 2005. Web. 31 Aug. 2014. <http://www.bergfashionlibrary.com/view/bazf/bazf00144.xml>.
Mower, Sarah. "Fashion: Hate it, Love it." Vogue Jul 01 2005: 152,152, 153, 154, 155, 156, 157, 176. ProQuest. Web. 9 Sep. 2014 .
Images
Bullock, Maggie. "Marc Jacobs on Marriage, His Career, and His Sexy New Girl." Elle. N.p., 11 Sept. 2009. Web. 05 Sept. 2014.
4 PIC
Vbm_nf12_003. Digital image. Http://www.wgsn.com. N.p., n.d. Web. 05 Sept. 2014.
Branscomb, Leslie Wolf. Marc Jacobs. Greensboro, NC: Morgan Reynolds Pub., 2011. Print.
Foley, Bridget. Marc Jacobs. Paris: Assouline, 2004. Print.
Steele, Valerie, and Robert Nippoldt. Fashion Designers A-Z: The Collection of the Museum at FIT: Prada Edition. Köln: Taschen, 2012. Print.